Vacation 2013: Kancamagus Highway (say WHAT???)

The Kancamagus Scenic Byway

Well I've been back home for a couple of days but still have more vacation to unfold to you. This blog has become like someone's horrible dinner party vacation slides. Or a baby shower. Like slow onset death. Happily, unlike those gatherings, you can end your misery with one "click" and get back to your quilting sites or Angry Birds or militia pages or whatever else you people do on the internet. Lord, if I ever found out what this site's readers also review on a daily basis...actually, you're probably all a lot like me. Socially inept shut-ins who watch lots of TV and follow sports way too closely, I imagine. As Kenny Powers says, "Welcome to the resistance." 

But I still have a few more totes tripindicular vacay days to cover, so let's dive back into the trip. When last we connected, I had just left Lebanon, NH, late, with a full tank of gas for the car and oatmeal and bacon for the Captain.

I headed toward the mythical Kancamagus Scenic Byway. This federally managed highway runs through the White Mountain National Forest in northwest New Hampshire. It runs between Lincoln and Conway, near New England's highest peak, Mt. Washington. More on that later.

1969 Firebird, Enfield, NH

To get there, however, you go through redneck country. Really. Imagine Arkansas with bigger hills and more fat guys wearing Red Sox hats. Those refrigerators and '70s cars must get lonely out on all those porches. Not much to report on the getting to the highway phase of the day, with two exceptions. In Enfield, NH (sounds like a place where some polygamy cult should be making women wear potato sack dresses and making children take in piece-work instead of going to school), I saw a used car lot with a good condition '69 Firebird, the Trans Am model. That's the first year that Pontiac made the Firebird. The lot put an American flag on the side, of course (who wouldn't buy a car with a flag on it), and in yellow marks-a-lot wrote $11,500 on the driver's window. I experienced a fleeting impulse to get out my checkbook and buy the thing. Which fortunately passed because I didn't bring a checkbook, mainly because its not 1993.

As I made it further and further north, the area became more heavily wooded and I saw more leaves that had changed color. The light even seemed crisper and more diffuse (like late fall sunlight, the kind you might remember on days when the World Series was on). The country itself became more rugged, with higher peaks, sharper curves, and fewer settlements. I noticed that further up north, some motorists practiced the "Texas wave," waving to oncoming drivers. New Hampshire went up at least one notch when that happened. The first time, a lady driving a 1963 convertible Ford Fairlane with the top down waved to me. I guess she was marking our mutual topless Ford state. Other times it was truck drivers and old folks. Like me.

OK, the Kancamagus Scenic Byway actually is a 32 mile portion of NH Route 112, that runs east-west through the White Mountain National Forest. On either end it runs alongside small rivers; it winds through mountainous country and Kancamagus Pass in between. At nearly all points, this road runs through gorgeous scenery. Really, including a gorge. Renting a convertible allowed me to enjoy the strong spruce, maple, and birch tree scent. I could envision myself passing through a huge Christmas tree lot. I also enjoyed the frequent "Moose Crossing" signs, though I didn't actually get to see a moose. Even though its a bit early for the fall foliage season, the leaves have started turning this far north, and I saw red and orange leaves at nearly every turn. Happily, the Service has prohibited the usual highway blight. Drivers need not look past billboards, gas stations, car lots, fast food restaurants, strip centers, hotels, or those ugly block letter signs with a flashing light arrow pointing in a direction.

Maple turning colors

To enjoy some of the more spectacular sights, the Park Service built a number of turnouts and viewing stations. I hit nearly every one of them.  The first, just at the Park Ranger office, was a major trailhead leading to several of the Forest's extensive trails. I followed a pedestrian bridge over the Pemigewasset River, which was flowing rapidly. I encountered a guy just finishing an obviously very long run. He was sporting a CamelBak (a cross between a back pack and a waterpack), and his trusty dog buddy ran alongside. The air temperature was already fairly cool, but this guy promptly got into the river below to chill his legs. Somewhere Suzanne Bertin the Placid Athlete got a tingly feeling all over and didn't know why. Extra placidity, no doubt.

Thereafter, I encountered a series of those "astronauts describing the earth" experiences. Beautiful. Just, really...um...beautiful. Really pretty. I enjoyed the sights.

Turnout near Kancamagus Pass

Lower Falls on the Swift River

To get an idea of this place's phenomenal attraction, check out my photos. The set turned out really well. But, I'll take at least a stab at describing some sights. After the initial trailhead turnout, the road heads into dense forest with mountains lining either side. This includes Mt. Carrigan to the north and Mt. Osceola to the south. This stretch offers several turnouts at elevation that provide clear and gorgeous views through these peaks. Changing leaves added some color variations as well. Deeper into the drive, you encounter a couple of small waterfalls and intense rapids, with trails lining each bank. The best is Rocky Gorge, a lovely spot on the Swift River running eastward toward Conway, NH. I made it to this stretch somewhat late in the afternoon, as the sun was falling rapidly in the west. The clouds had lifted and the sun bathed these spots in that wonderful late fall afternoon glow.

Conway Scenic Railroad

The eastern end spills out in Conway, a fairly non-descript two-road town that doesn't even have a Dairy Queen (that, right there, is foreshadowing). But it does boast a restored scenic railway. Had I known that, I'd have allowed plenty of additional time to ride the train, because trains are boss and that's what I'm all about. Alas, I had to content myself with stopping at a train crossing and watching it inch by slowly.

As the day gave way, I realized I'd run out of time to head further north and explore the Mt. Washington area. That was a real shame as I'd read that it too offers incredibly scenery. But better to have daylight on the road to Manchester, so I headed south. Not much to report thereafter, though I did pass through two mice little towns near the unpronounceable Lake Winnipesaukee. Marlborough and Meredith both seemed like pleasant little places to live. Sitting on the porch reading in the morning after a hearty breakfast. Going to the market or the library in the afternoon. Passing the time with the old cusses down at the General Store. OK, neither one was Mayberry, but they seemed fairly Truman Show-esque for the 21st Century East Coast. Meredith in particular boasts many well preserved colonial and Victorian homes, and lies right on the Lake shore. It resembled Peyton Place (modern reference), albeit without all the freakery. I would think.

Somewhere along the way I passed through the "town" of Osippee, and encountered a crumbling covered bridge to the west side of the highway. Pulling over, I saw it still bore a sign that read: "BEARCAMP CROSSING. Horse drawn carriages. Motored pleasure vehicles. Two and three wheelers. Sleighs and pedestrians. Horses slow canter. Vehicles 5 mph." Whaaaaaaaaaaat? So, its like 1934 in Osippee? Somewhere Fred Astaire is serenading Ginger Rogers out in the snow (you know, "A Fine Romance" from Swing Time? Ugh, I know too much about musicals for my own good).

I drove through Concord, and had intended to stop and see the Capitol. But it was college game night and I had to see the Longhorns fall flat on their faces to BYU, so I beat it on to Manchester. Which is where we'll pick up next time!

NEXT-the last vacation installment. Portsmouth, Cape Ann, and back to Providence and home.