Sunday, May 31, 2009

Stax Records Museum




Soul is the music people understand. Sure it's basic and it's simple. But it's something else 'cause, 'cause, 'cause it's honest, that's it. Its honest...It sticks its neck out and says it straight from the heart. Sure there's a lot of different music you can get off on but soul is more than that. It takes you somewhere else.

-The Commitments

This weekend I visited Memphis. "Long distance information, get me Memphis, Tennessee." That one. It was a quick weekend trip, and you can see the pictures on flickr.

Despite the brevity, I was able to visit an absolute gem, the incredible American Museum of Soul Music, at the site of the former Stax Records headquarters and recording studio. You know, Soulsville USA. Carl Perkins once wrote, "Nashville had country music, but Memphis had the soul." And in Memphis, the home of soul was Stax Records. Home of Otis Redding, Sam and Dave, Rufus Thomas, the Staples Singers, Isaac Hayes, Wilson Pickett, Albert King, the Bar-Kays, Booker T and the MG's. Where Motown was polite, suburban, and white-friendly, Stax was the real thing. Grittier, funkier, more passionate, less house-broken. Although it came to be one of the two premier American soul labels in the 1960s, it was founded by two whites, one of whom was a woman, which was quite unusual for those days. Stax was fully integrated from its beginnings in the late 1950s. As Steve Cropper says in the introductory video, "color never walked through the doors at Stax." Stax Records created music that people will know long after the ridiculous tripe now passing for soul is long-forgotten. "These Arms of Mine," "Hold on, I'm Coming," "Respect," "Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay," "Try A Little Tenderness," "Green Onions," "Shaft," "Soul Finger," "Respect Yourself,"...a list that goes on and on.

The museum is a replica of the original Stax studios, which were torn down in 1989. Among the interesting displays are a recreation of the original sound and mixing board, with original 8-track console and tape editing machine. The museum also recreates the old studio, which was originally in a converted movie theatre that retained its slanted floor. Other highlights include numerous photos and stage costumes, a dance floor with continuously showing "Soul Train" shows from the early 1970s, and Isaac Hayes' 1972 custom Cadillac Eldorado. This thing was fine-24 carat gold exterior trim, distressed blue paint and crushed blue velvet seats, white shag carpeting, sun-roof, wet bar, television, gold hub caps. Elvis' fleet had nothing on this baby.

This museum really entertains, and contains lots of "artifacts," much like the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Hopefully, any of you intersted in either soul music or music in the 1960s will find time to visit this outstanding museum.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Obama vs. Notre Dame



Obama 47 - Notre Dame 23. A typical Fighting Irish meltdown in South Bend. Touchdown Jesus weeps.

Whither the collective Notre Dame conniption fit over the President of the United States addressing its commencement ceremony. Is this Indiana in 2009 or Kent State in 1970? What is going on in the Midwest? What with Notre Dame's only real excuse for existence, its football team, flatlining miserably these last few years, the Fighting Irish should be thankful they get anyone other than some "who's that," like the Secretary of Labor, or the Postmaster General, or Deputy Under-Secretary of Commerce to show up. Hell, Notre Dame could have gotten Tail Gunner Joe Biden. At least he'd have either read someone else's speech or given us one of his trademark ad-lib gems. My favorite was "Stand up Chuck, let 'em see ya," spoken to a paralyzed man in a wheelchair. That's Gib Lewis-worthy.

I don't like to get into politics here, mainly because many of you are Godless Communists, hell bent on stealing from the not so well off to incentivize the government-dependent class to stay dependent on the government, instead engaging in the American ethic of hard work and bettering themselves. So you would get itchy and feverish reading my political views, most of which come straight from The Prince.

But this hullaballoo over President Obama addressing the Notre Dame commencement ceremony leaves me in the unfortunate position of feeling compelled to defend our Emperor and his New Clothes. At least in part. Because disenchanted Domers...you people are really wrong on this issue. Sort of like you were wrong about Charlie Weis being the new Ara Parseghian.

The controversy, as I understand it, involves the following reasoning: Notre Dame is a Catholic institution, one of the main tenets of Roman Catholicism is opposition to abortion (which somehow has translated into fervent opposition to laws allowing abortion), Notre Dame should stand as a bastion of anti-abortion thought, and the prominent appearance of a pro-choice politician is incompatible with that anti-abortion message. The President's appearance, which by the way was at the invitation of the President of the university, has generated passionate protest and even arrests. Obama, for his part, tried to defuse the controversy in a fairly graceful way, acknowledging the differences between pro-life and pro-choice positions, but calling for mutual respect and engagement. Specifically, he reached out to Catholics to help him with programs to address unintended pregnancies and to make adoption easier.

These protesters really have overlooked some important things. First off, Notre Dame didn't necessarily invite Barack Obama to speak because its thrilled with him and want to join his cult of personality, it invited him because he is the President of the United States and the democratically elected leader of our nation. Whoever occupies the office of President is entitled to respect, and for the President to accept an invitation to appear at your institution is an honor and privilege. Notre Dame doesn't effectively endorse all his political or moral views just by inviting him to its ceremony, any more than it agrees with all the students to whom it offers admission or the professors it hires to teach there. Or any more than the views of the numerous other Presidents or other officials who have spoken at Notre Dame commencement ceremonies. Has respect for our political institutions sunk so low that there could be some legitimate question at a reputable national university about whether the President of the United States, no matter his views, represents an appropriate individual to speak to its students?

Additionally, let's all remember that there are other issues than abortion, and the official Catholic position on those issues hasn't slowed down Notre Dame from inviting those with different views from addressing its commencement ceremonies. I'm mainly talking about the death penalty. The Roman Catholic Church's official position is staunchly opposed to the death penalty. Indeed, the same Catholic bishops presently up in arms over an "abortionist" President speaking at Notre Dame have called for an end to the death penalty and been politically active to stop executions. Yet, Notre Dame invited firmly pro-death penalty Presidents George Bush (41 and 43) and Ronald Reagan to speak without similar outrage. One can well imagine that Notre Dame has invited numerous officials and other prominent public figures to address commencement exercises who do not hew to the Catholic position on any number of issues, such as contraception. Why there were probably even some atheists in there too. Why the difference for Obama, and why the difference on abortion?

Its also deplorable that alumni of a university, which should stand as a bastion of free thought and expression, should seek to bury their collective heads in the sand and not even listen to those expressing different ideas or having different beliefs. Freedom of expression and speech is under attack in this country in so many ways. From the effort to de-throne some idiotic beauty pageant winner just because she dared to express a belief on gay marriage still embodied in nearly every state's laws, to nationwide outrage at some stupid disk jockey who said distasteful things about college women's basketball players, we are creating a culture of self-censorship, where failure to express agreement with the prevailing political views leads to public revulsion, ostracism, and contempt. The harsher the retribution and criticism of outside the mainstream views, the fewer we will have, until no one will ever dare to express a contrary idea. We've been through this before. It was called the Dark Ages. The Inquisition ran amok, torturing anyone who expressed belief in science, or who dared to interpret the Bible differently than the Pope. We have experienced the Committee on Un-American Activities, where individuals with "progressive" views were hounded and punished simply because their views differed from those of certain influential politicians. Universities exist as centers for learning and expression. They have no other purpose, or certainly no higher purpose (especially at Notre Dame, whose football team last year won its first bowl game since 1994, and has become practically useless). A university must provide absolute freedom of expression, as only through consideration of opposing views can those views be tested, evaluated, and sharpened. Universities throughout this country have already sharply restricted conservative voices. This incident represents just another example of an unfortunate trend toward stifling opposing thought. A university should not only tolerate different views but encourage those with different views to speak them clearly, not for suppression of different views. Even a Catholic university. You listen up too, Baylor. If one opposes a certain position, the best response is to engage in the debate, demonstrate the superiority of one's views, and persuade others to believe as you do. That is one of our bedrock freedoms. Stifling all opposition views is the way of the North Korean Communist Party. Not a major American university.

Finally, I hesitate to bring this up, but there's probably a lot of Notre Dame students, professors, alumni, and supporters who support abortion rights. A sizable number of Catholics in this country support abortion rights. Should they be expelled or fired to preserve Notre Dame's anti-abortion purity? Additionally, the latest Gallup Poll shows very little difference in support or opposition to abortion laws among American Catholics from the population as a whole. Shall they be excommunicated? Perhaps all the energy being channeled into protesting against President Obama should instead be redirected to persuading other Catholics that current abortion laws are wrong. In other words, focus on getting your base straightened out before going after the enemy.

OK, now that we have all that solved, I hope to resume the usual harangues, with the gratuitous Dirty Dancing and Top Gun references and "that's what she said" statements in the next post. Enjoy your week!

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Odds and Ends


Several thoughts here, none deserving an entire post.

*****

Our Texas Senate, replete with small government Republicans, once again has struck a blow for limited government. Not sure whether you knew this or not, but you are not smart enough to decide for yourself whether to eat food with trans fats in restaurants. Thankfully, our state government heroes have stepped in to protect you from yourself, banning the practice of restaurants serving food with trans fats. These guys are on a roll, having already saved us from the scourge of teenage tanning, and soon to agree to spend $2 million during these tough fiscal times on testing high school athletes for steroids. God forbid you should decide for yourself whether to eat this stuff or not. Oh, and just in the nick of time too, since restaurants are already eliminating this stuff without any government intervention. This is all part of what appears to be a genius plan to remake Texas into one gigantic suburb, creating a safe and comforting environment for soccer moms, cardigan-wearing dads, and their towhead kids. And to protect the children. Here's my list of other things we should ban, to protect the children and make suburbanites feel welcome everywhere they go:

1. Pointy objects (can get stuck in eyes or cause nasty bruises).
2. Dust. Causes coughing and allergies, and ruins the finish on fine furniture. And could have peanut vapor.
3. Two-door cars. Those are driven by people who don't have families, and who are therefore potential child molesters.
4. Cheerios. Oh, wait, that's for real.
5. Coldplay. They kind of suck. Time for the government to step in and protect us from buying their music.
6. Air. It might have peanut vapor.
7. Name-calling. Except in politics.
8. Being picked last for teams at recess (henceforth, teams shall be picked based on each child's social security number, in ascending order until a team is completely filled).
9. Keeping score, assigning grades, or any other sort of merit recognition system that makes losers, err, less ably gifted children aware of their less giftedness.
10. Left-handedness. They think they're so cool and lord it over the other kids. And they're more likely to have peanut vapor about them.
11. Soggy crab cakes. Nothing can shut down the perfect country club wedding down faster than this.
12. Girls with inadequately publicized coming out parties. They cast a pall over every Southern Living party they attend.
13. Unattractively landscaped homes.
14. Pants or shorts without elastic waistbands (because fixed size waistbands are intimidating and discriminatory).
15. Peanut vapor.

****

Famous people I've seen (in person):

Gary Busey (falling down drunk in an elevator at the Dallas Loews' Anatole)
Burt Bacharach (also in a Dallas elevator, at the Adolphus Hotel)
JoBeth Williams (walking across the street in Santa Fe)
David Sedaris (at several book readings)
Cary Grant (when he came to UT)
Dennis Quaid (Hard Rock Cafe in Houston in the 1980s)
Rob Lowe (in New York)
Bianca Jagger (lobby of the Four Seasons in Houston)
Julia Roberts (possibly the most stunningly beautiful person I've ever seen in real life)
Sandra Bullock (who both times I saw her [once at the airport, once at the Miss Congeniality premiere] looked like a crack whore. Actually, that's unfair. More like, an assistant crack whore)
William Shatner (Miss Congeniality premiere)
Jesse Jackson (aforementioned Four Seasons lobby)
Ron Reeder (lots of times, especially at Christmas)

****

The wildflowers along Town Lake (Lady Bird Lake) are finally thick, mainly with indian blankets, sunflowers, black-eyed susans, even some very late season bluebonnets. Basically its the grassy area on the north shore, starting from the outfield of the Austin High baseball field and going east all the way to Lamar Blvd. Get outside soon!

*****

People who performed at Woodstock that I've seen in concert:

Neil Young
The Grateful Dead
Richie Havens
The Who
Santana

****

Teams I cheer for:

University of Texas Longhorns-everything
Louisiana State University Fighting Tigers-everything
Rice University Owls-everything
Houston Rockets (beat the Lakers!)
Houston Astros
Houston Texans
Houston Oilers (RIP)
New Orleans Saints
Kingwood High School Mustangs

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Happy Mother's Day




I married your mother because I wanted children. Imagine my disappointment when you arrived."

Groucho Marx, "Horse Feathers"

Well, exactly.

This is to wish all the Moms out there a very happy remainder of this Mother's Day. You all deserve it. Even ostensibly "bad" mothers are still blessings. The special ones, of course, are off the chart.

The word "mom" is a deceptively simple way to describe the dozens of functions that mothers play in their children's lives: teacher, nurturer, supporter, protector, chauffer, friend, butler, cook, doctor, critic (both in a good and bad way, sometimes), referree, secretary, entertainer, fixer...the list just goes on and on. It would take a staff of about 20 to replace the average mother.

I remember the year I worked in New Orleans, I went with the head of the firm to Galveston where we had an emergency hearing in federal court. He told me to stay behind an extra day and go see my mother, and to do that any other time I was in or near Houston, because that was more important than the day of work I'd miss. He was right.

Where would any of us be without our mothers?

Who will still be there, in your corner, when everyone else in the world has let you down?

Who's the one person who will always laugh at your jokes when you're the worst joke-teller in the world?

Who'll still be there to help when you've made a total mess of your life and have nowhere else to turn?

Who can make you feel better than any doctor when you're sick?

Who will always tell you you're the most beautiful or handsome person in the world even though your face turns people to stone?

Who will embarrass you your whole life with ill-timed hugs and kisses?

Who's the one person who will do anything it takes to protect you from danger?

Who can always make you feel better when you're miserable and depressed?

Your mother, that's who.

So, all you Moms out there, I hope you had a great day. Everyone else, honor your mother "that it may go well with you and that you may have a long life."

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Jazz Festival 2009, Sunday-Keep On Rockin' In the Free World





This was one of those rare days when something happened I’ll probably always remember-this was the day that Neil Young tore up and spit out the Jazz Festival like a feeding shark. This old man single-handedly owned the Jazz Fest—probably the only time a Neville Brothers Jazz Festival performance has been rendered anti-climactic. So if you’re not prepared to read about this in detail, turn back now.

The day started off with a touch of cynicism, however. Passing by the Holy Rosary church at about 10:45 on a Sunday morning, I noticed they were using their parking lot to charge Festival-goers $30 for parking, as they had throughout the weekend. A small sign out front instructed those wanting to attend mass that they needed to park down the street. I assume this meant the disabled and elderly as well. Now, its understandable why they do this—it’s a tremendous fundraising opportunity that falls into this church’s lap every year by the happy coincidence of its location so close to the Fair Grounds. Let’s say they can accommodate 150 cars at $30 a car, they’re probably looking at around $4,500/day. If they used the lot for church parking on Sunday, instead of festival parking, they let slip a $9,000 fundraising opportunity that has almost no cost attached to it. That’s hard money to turn down for any non-profit. Still, it presents a distasteful image for a Christian church, and especially for a Catholic church (with all those priceless Vatican works of art stored away in Rome and with the Church’s vast property world-wide property holdings) to so symbolically put money before worship. I wonder if that’s not money best left on the table, as it were.

Shrugging it off, I managed to arrive once again exactly as the Gospel Tent’s morning prayer was getting underway. Although no wedding party seemed in attendance, Rev. Mark and the Gospel All-Stars were, and they took the stage first. This consisted of three male singers and a basic backing band, singing typical gospel songs.

As it was pretty standard fare (only at the Jazz Festival Gospel Tent could what would otherwise come off as amazing and inspirational singing seem hum-drum, sort of like your fourth hour of driving on the Pacific Coast Highway...“oh, another nice view”), I ventured over to the Fais-Do-Do stage. Predictably, that’s become my standard rally point when there’s no one playing that I’ve scheduled. Can’t get enough of that chanky-chank music and dancing. On stage was the Red Stick Ramblers. The Ramblers are fairly young players, and they play traditional Cajun but with western swing and jazz touches. Sort of a Cajun Hot Club of Cowtown. During their performance, Acadiana legend D.L. Menard, scheduled to appear next, sort of wandered into the crowd to say hi to some people he knew. Not that many people recognized him, but a steady stream of people did come over to say hello, have their picture made with him, get something signed. He seemed to love it.

From there I went to the Acura stage to see local legend Jonathan Batiste. Although I’ve heard of him many years, I thought he was strictly a pure jazz pianist. Wrong. In fact, he is a piano virtuoso of all styles, working nearly all of them into his music. Classical, jazz, blues, R&B, funk, soul, and even rock find their way into Batiste’s eclectic music. He had a full band and together they had the rapidly filling crowd dancing. Imagine Harry Connick, Jr., but with less shtick.

But I cut it a bit short as it was time for D.L. Menard and the Louisiana Aces. I wrote extensively about him last year, so will just say this guy is the Real Cajun. I’ve heard countless numbers of Cajuns, but could barely understand his English. Musically, he’s also traditional Cajun, but with more of an old country edge (for example, one of his band members plays pedal steel guitar). He must be well over 70, yet had no trouble getting around and appeared quite feisty, complaining to the stage hands about amp settings and so forth. At one point, he said that he’s suffering from an “epidemic of Chris” because three members of his band are named Chris. “Epidemic of Chris” would have been a good name for this blog, or if I ever form a band. When introducing his steel guitar player, he said “he’s a professor over at U.L. but he ain’t got nothin’ on me, I garawntee!” Menard had a fairly full house, and the dance area was pretty full the entire time.

From there it was back to the Acura stage for local legend Allen Toussaint. Toussaint is one of those many New Orleans musicians who’ve been around forever, have played with nearly everyone of any consequence, and no matter what the prevailing styles of the day just keep practicing their craft without much fanfare. Toussaint is also another one of those players whose style is a musical gumbo—just call it New Orleans R&B. Wearing a canary yellow jacket (surely it wasn’t the same one Tony Bennett wore Friday night?), cream slacks, crisp white dress shirt and a gold tie, and fronting a full band with horns, rhythm section and backup singers, Toussaint got the crowd on his side at the beginning and kept them as he worked through a litany of old school, Dew Drop Inn New Orleans standards: “Mother in Law,” “Certain Girl,” "Fortune Teller," and many others.

Between that and Neil Young, it was time to squeeze in a little bit of time for the New Leviathan Oriental Foxtrot Orchestra and Sherman Washington and the Zion Harmonizers. The Orchestra, appearing at the Economy Hall tent, basically was like the ship orchestra on the Titanic. Everyone dressed like Capt. Steubing on Love Boat, which was a little weird (which one was Julie?), but the tent and its dance floor were completely packed and the crowd loved it. The Harmonizers came out about 20 minutes before Neil Young, so this year I only caught a couple of their songs. I’ve also written previously about this legendary group, still fronted after more than 50 years by founder Sherman Washington. Washington appeared in a wheelchair again this year, and although it was announced that he wouldn’t be able to perform due to not feeling well, he took the mike after the first song and belted out the emotional “I Want to Be at the Meeting” that got him choked up last year when he got to the line “when I get to Heaven, I'll meet my mother there.” That was a special moment last year, and a special moment this year as well.

Although I would normally have stayed for much more of their show, it was time to try to secure the best possible viewing spot for Neil Young so I left early.

I managed to squeeze myself fairly close to the stage, getting some really great pictures you can see on flickr.

If you don’t know who Neil Young is, I’m not sure where you’ve been the last 40 years but run, don’t walk, to buy Live Rust, Harvest, and Year of the Horse. There’s at least four Neil Youngs: country troubadour, folk poet, hippie hero of Woodstock, and the Godfather of Grunge. All four Neil Youngs showed up in New Orleans today. The stage crew set up enormous floodlights and an oversized amp. Neil came on stage with his usual Gibson Les Paul (“Old Black”), with the same peace sign/dove sign strap as he wore in Live Rust, launching into a blistering “Love and Only Love.” For the next two hours, he wreaked total devastation on the Jazz Festival. Moving on to “Hey, Hey, My, My,” Neil played that wretchedly excessive paint peeling guitar typical of the old Crazy Horse songs. From there, he took to the piano for a quieter “Are You Ready for the Country,” returning back into the melting chords of 1969’s “Everybody Knows This is Nowhere,” (ironically, as he sang the lyric, “every time I think about back home, its cool and breezy,” a cool breeze began to blow through the Fair Grounds), an equally vicious and surprisingly reworked “Pocohontas” (originally a quiet acoustic song from Rust Never Sleeps), “Change Your Mind,” and culminating with the timeless “Cinnamon Girl.” These songs really showcased Young as the spiritual demi-god of the 1990s grunge scene. As if straight from the garage, Young coaxed heavily distorted power chords from his 1960s Gibson Les Paul, which he played “like a relic from a different age.” Not for nothing did Nirvana and Pearl Jam revere Young—Pearl Jam played with him at Young’s Rock and Roll Hall of Fame induction. This may just as well have been 1980’s Rust Never Sleeps. At that point, folkie Young made an appearance with “Mother Earth,” played on a small pipe organ, the classic “Needle and the Damage Done,” and “Light a Candle,” then into country Neil, with Harvest’s classic “Heart of Gold” and “Old Man.” After “Speakin’ Out” from Tonight’s the Night, Young launched into an extended, version of “Down By the River,” featuring multiple solo turns. Heading towards the end, he charged into the rock and roller “Get Behind the Wheels,” to conclude with a proudly distorted version of the now anthemic “Keep On Rockin’ In the Free World.” For the inevitable encore, the band played a surprisingly straight version of the Beatles’ “A Day in the Life,” John’s concluding song on Sgt. Pepper, complete with the audience belting out the famous “ahhh” section at the end of the bridge. At the very end, Young wrestled the last few chords out of Old Black, shaking, punching, bashing it, dragging it across the stage, ripping at the strings, finally placing it next to the amp for it to explode in a glorious last piercing jolt of feedback. To punctuate the ending, Neil climbed to the top of the riser, took a pair of mallets, and played one single note on a marimba to bring the show to an end. This was an all-timer. Easily this incandescent performance has made my personal top five of any musical performance ever. There’s nothing like watching a master practice his craft. In this case, there’s nothing like watching someone from the old school stand his ground and refuse to concede on his art. And as if the heavens were busy watching the show too, a torrential downpour began seconds after the show concluded.

As I arrived at Dash Rip Rock, soaked and getting colder by the minute but still on a high after the Neil Young show, I noticed the Lagniappe Stage appeared to have been crowded even before the rains. Dash is New Orleans’ other great party band, out of the Cowboy Mouth tradition (not surprising, because former Cowboy Mouth personnel founded Dash Rip Rock). I was able to catch about the last 20 minutes of the show, and was especially happy about that as I hadn’t seen them since I lived in New Orleans in 1991. I think only the lead guitar player is the same from that era, but that’s typical. The small crowd was loving the show, and what I did not remember was the college-age girl admiration and fandom. Apparently Dash Rip Rock has become the Pat Green of New Orleans in that respect. The song “New Orleans Needs Stronger Dikes,” whose lyrics basically consisted of a list of famous lesbians, was pretty funny.

After Dash concluded, I debated ending it right there, thinking anyone else’s performance would be downhill. It turned out I was right, but there was an hour left and at $40/ticket, I was going to get all of my money’s worth.

So, as previously planned, I soldiered on to the Neville Brothers. The rain had mostly stopped, having slowed to just a very slight drizzle, but it had driven away a lot of the normally elbow-to-elbow crowd that packs in to hear the Neville Brothers at Jazz Festival. I have to say, after Neil, this show just seemed like a footnote. They also seemed to just mail it in. Last year was quite an emotional show, it being the first time the Nevilles had performed in New Orleans since Katrina. They pulled out all the stops last year, complete with numerous guests, and a show that pushed at least a half hour past the scheduled 7:00 conclusion. This year, however, had no such highlights, energy, or stamina. It even started late thanks to the rain.

So I briefly detoured to check out Buddy Guy. Again, another technically competent blues player, another packed house, another time I just couldn't really enjoy the blues. Its not him, its me. Guess I'm too happy a person. Guy did have some pretty great licks, and even went into the crowd at one point.

So I returned and finished Jazz Festival with the conclusion of the shortened Neville Brothers set, ending yet another year at the Festival.

Thanks for reading. Back to all the sarcasm in the next post.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Jazz Festival 2009, Saturday-I Knew the Bride When She Used to Rock and Roll




Question: What's the strangest thing you've ever seen at Jazz Fest?
Answer: A wedding, on stage at the Gospel Tent.

Question: What's the second strangest thing you've ever seen at Jazz Fest?
Answer: The crowd at the Fais-Do-Do stage dancing the horah, complete with people being raised on chairs.

Both of these things happened today at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. As John Lennon said, strange days indeed, most peculiar. Of course, he was the Walrus.

After the morning prayer at the Gospel Tent ("Battle Hymn of the Republic"), and as the Morning Star Baptist Church Mass Choir took the stage, I noticed a woman in a brides gown, and about five or six bridesmaids in various canary yellow dresses (see tomorrow's post; what's up with yellow?), with other family types also wearing yellow trickling in behind them. "I've seen it all now," I thought. That's not the sort of thing you usually see at the Jazz Festival, so I immediately became curious about what was happening. Not long to wait, as the announcer stated that there would be a wedding on-stage later in the day (after joking that she hoped there was a groom too). They sit up front, talking with staff-looking types near the stage as audience members like me gawk. The Choir was great, as are nearly all Gospel Tent acts. Not such a traditional gospel church choir, but more influenced by funk and R&B than usual. The Church's minister is also the organ player, and had previously led a very thoughtful morning prayer. Later in their set, they break out with a "Greek chorus" of about four people in black gowns and whiteface (a nice touch; Al Jolson is still rolling in his grave) looking like they were trying to Renew in Logan's Run.

Mime is money, of course, so it was on to the Fais-Do-Do stage for the Berard Family Band. This group, from Cecilia, Louisiana is a pretty straight-on Cajun, right down to the triangle player. As visions of Ed Grimley dance in my mind, I wonder whether this is a family band like the Partridge Family or the Von Trapp Singers were a real family (or at least they were on the show; by the way, who was the bigger loser-Danny Partridge or Jan Brady? Both were bitter, jealous middle children unable to see beyond their pathetic incompetence and accept being outshined by their older star siblings...or is it just me?). Right at that moment, Al Berard introduces the band, and sure enough, it really IS a family band.

After coming back to the real world, I returned to the Gospel Tent to check on the wedding, and happily managed to catch the conclusion of the Rocks of Harmony show. These guys, long-time New Orleans gospel performers, sound similar to the famous Five Blind Boys of Alabama. The Gospel Tent was completely crowded, unusual for such an early show, and on its feet.

The wedding followed. More pictures are on flickr. The crowd loved it. It was pretty tasteful and serious, given the surroundings, and the crowd was enthusiastic and cheered, but appropriately I thought. The bride kept crying during the ceremony. Lets hope those were tears of joy. Later that afternoon, I saw the whole wedding party on the track near the Gentilly Stage for the Cowboy Mouth show. Quite the contrast.

After getting loaded up on jama jama, chicken and fried plantains (like dessert), I made yet another effort to appreciate Zachary Richard. And failed. My very close friend Donna (who I see about once a decade now), is a huge ZR fan, and based strictly on that alone I've tried several times over the years to develop some affinity or appreciation for one of the acknowledged masters of zydeco. Maybe its that all the songs sound deadly serious. If he WAS the master of zydeco, now he's the Joan Baez of it. Maybe its the lack of fun in his performing style. Or maybe its the following description from his web site: "Militant environmentalist and cultural activist, poet and singer-songwriter." You know what, how 'bout shutting up about Rwanda and play something we can dance to?

Having met once again with failure, I moved on to Gina Brown at Congo Square. This is where I should have been the whole time. Brown has a voice reminiscent of Gloria Gaynor, with some sweet dance moves to go with it. The crowd was on its feet and getting down with its bad self to the jazzy funk sounds.

After next catching the end of the Pinstripe Brass Band at the Jazz and Heritage Stage, enjoying the mean stepping of a four year old boy in the crowd dressed in a baby blue suit, I embarked upon an afternoon trifecta of Bonerama, Feufollet and Deacon John. All three played at last year's Festival and I wrote about them then. Bonerama is led by three trombonists, and have a very Nevilles/funk groove. They've developed something of a cult following, as borne out by the unusually dense crowd for this time of day. Feufollet, at the Fais-Do-Do stage, once again was a real treat. These are young guns, playing traditional Cajun music but with a modern sensibility. If you get the impression from the flickr pictures that I might begin stalking their guitar player, Anna Laura Edmiston,you may be right. Mainly I have to see if I can work it into my busy schedule (work, my existing stalking commitments, running, bothering my friends' kids, watching sitcom repeats, hiding from marriage, and playing solitaire on my ipod-I've got a lot on my plate and its not easy for me to just add something without careful reflection on how it will affect the big picture). Finally, Deacon John was one of my big "finds" from last year (strange for a 70 year old man to be found after a 50 year career). He plays a scorching blues and rock guitar, and has a full backing band with horns. John wears a suit, pork pie hat, and bow tie, and occasionally breaks into a Chuck Berry duck walk mid-solo. He's promoting a CD called "Jump Blues" This is the stuff that Brian Jones, Eric Clapton, and Stevie Ray Vaughan grew up listening to, especially John's nasty slide technique.

Once that concluded, it was on to one of New Orleans' premiere party bands, Cowboy Mouth. This band should have made it big just on dynamism alone, but the lack of original songs, personnel instability, and the general demise of rock and roll, have kept them regional. No one can get a crowd going like their "frontman," drummer Fred LeBlanc. Oh, and the bass player looks like Gogo from Kill Bill. This group bills itself as the Neville Brothers meet the Clash. Lots of punk feel. The place was packed with young twenty somethings; it could well have been a Tulane/LSU mixer.

Aaron Neville then began his solo Gospel Tent performance, except that instead of using a backup tape as he did last year, he had a four-piece band on stage. At first, I thought it was great he'd sprung for a full band, til I found out he's been touring as the Aaron Neville Quintet recently (with brother Charles on sax), so the Gospel Tent was just another gig for them. The Gospel Tent was literally overflowing with people. You can see on flickr a picture of crowds outside of the tent just trying to hear. The performance was excellent, although I've never been a huge Aaron Neville fan. Something about the falsetto/vibrato combination fails to move me to tears, unlike for most others. He mixed in some secular songs, but by and large it was spiritual. Ave Maria was particularly compelling. Oh, and by the way, this is the second time at this festival I've heard someone sing "A Change Gonna Come." I thought the change had come in the form of Barack Obama. Wasn't that the deal? He's the change? Isn't milk and honey flowing yet? Has Obama paid that poor grandmother's mortgage that he met on the campaign? What are people still complaining about? The "change party" has a firm grip on Congress and the White House. Obama's even complaining because the Republicans aren't strong enough to constitute an effective opposition. They're taxing the rich to give to the poor. I guess nothing's ever going to be enough for some people.

What an extreme shift to go from that to the New Orleans Klezmer All-Stars. Basically, they play funky Jewish music and wear traditional hats. The music is borderline crazy dissonance, without any vocals. The craziness infected the crowd. A bunch of young people started dancing the horah, the traditional Jewish wedding dance performed in a circle. A bunch of frat chaches started hoisting each other in a chair, as a Jewish wedding party might for the bride and groom. I made a couple of videos of it, also on flickr.

I meant to conclude the day with the O'Jays, the trio from the 1970s with hits "Love Train," and "Back Stabbers," "I Love Music," and "Used to be My Girl." They were late getting on stage though, but sang all the hits and wore matching cream linen suits with gold embroidered stripes and designs. Most of the songs had choreography, a la the Temptations or the Pips, which was pretty cool.

On a chance, I decided to end the day, unexpectedly, at the Blues Tent listening to John Mayall. Mayall, now 75, was a huge figure in the British blues revival during the 1960s, which spawned Eric Clapton, Brian Jones, Jimmy Page, the Yardbirds, Fleetwood Mac, even the Who. Clapton joined his band after he left the Yardbirds, contributing to Mayall's biggest hit, "Blues Breakers with Eric Clapton." Again, the tent was packed with people spilling out into the surround walkways. Again, I'm not a huge blues fan, but this was blues by an englishman so it had a certain structure to it missing from some of the American players. As the show concluded, I walked out of Jazz Fest sated, anticipating the next concluding day.

Tomorrow-Neil Young, Dash Rip Rock, D.L. Menard, Neville Brothers, and plenty of late afternoon rain.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Jazz Festival 2009-Friday "Just the Way You Look Tonight"




Today was a lot hotter and sunnier. Already I can tell its going to be a hard day. I was running late getting out to the show because as I was looking for a place to park, I realized I forgot my ticket and had to go back to the hotel. Story of my life.

As I arrived at the Gospel Tent, the morning prayer was just starting, so ultimately I was right on time. I’d already seen the Bester Sisters, who were first up, so instead I decided to drift a bit. I landed at the Acura Stage (the main one), for the Chilluns. No idea who these people were, but I gathered they are somehow related, and the “chilluns” of someone famous. Basically they were playing funky pop, but after about the third cover song I’d had enough and decided to continue wandering. I made it to the Lagniappe Stage, in the Fair Grounds grandstand, for the Drew Landry Band, led by Drew Landry. This is exactly the kind of rock masquerading as country music so in vogue now days that I can’t stand, and which prevents me from listening to most mainstream modern country music. Pretty much anything post-George Strait is out. Singing a rock song with an affected twang isn’t country, no matter how many “hard luck story” lyrics you throw in. But it was nice sitting in a chair under a tent with a breeze, so I lingered. After a couple of songs, he brought his mother on stage to sing a song, and every woman in the place, on cue, went “awwwww….” Then he dedicated the song to his fiddle player’s wife, who is battling cancer. More and more insistent “awwwwwws.” You magnificent bastard. Well played sir. Well played. Like just writing songs and playing the guitar isn’t enough. How is this guy not already a star?

Around noon I headed to Congo Square for jama-jama, fried plantains, and chicken, then stayed a bit for something called Ori Culture Danse Club of Benin. This was an African drumming troupe, the kind that Jazz Fest features annually. They were in their tribal outfits, dancing all round the stage. That may be, but they’re still Culture Club, and therefore to be avoided on name alone.

On the way to the Acura Stage, I saw a “Jazz Funeral,” ostensibly to memorialize Snooks Eglin and Michael P. Smith. See the pictures on Flickr. Lots of people followed the brass band and the mourners (wearing festooned black suits), holding pictures of other loved ones they were honoring as well. A fairly large crowd rushed in to see, creating this horrific body heat effect that nearly had me giving way to it. I don’t suffer from agoraphobia, but in this instance it was just too tight. By the way, when I die, all I ask is that they slow the hearse down long enough to dump me in a ditch. Probably somewhere in Fort Bend County, top rated place in Texas to “stash the body.”

Nonetheless, with the sun fully blazing and New Orleans humidity in full flower, I headed to see Beausoleil, perhaps the most famous Cajun band in the world. Despite the heat, many couples are dancing, which just goes to show, if Cajuns aren’t cooking or rounding up ingredients to cook, they’re dancing. Have to say, Beausoleil seemed kind of lifeless today. Not one song had much zip. Not sure if that’s their standard enthusiasm level, or just the heat, or maybe if you do something long enough your enthusiasm level will wane. No matter, I hung in for about 45 minutes then succumbed again to the heat and went to the Gospel Tent to cool down before Marcia Ball.

Thankfully, I stumbled upon yet another (for me) Jazz Fest find—Glen David Andrews. This guy was incredibly dynamic and was a dervish from stage right to stage left and beyond, going into the crowd frequently. This house was full and it was a rockin’—don’t bother knockin’. He had help from the Dirty Dozen horn section and Trombone Shorty. One disturbing sign was at the end, when he made a big production out of putting on his white jacket matching his white pants, over his Ed Hardy shirt, and putting back on his sunglasses. This early stage of douchosity does not bode well for a gospel artist. Beware the lesson of Sam Cooke, young man.

Marcia Ball, up next, was on at least her second appearance of the week. Her set list was essentially the same as her Wednesday show in Lafayette Square, only a little grittier and showier. She came out wearing a custom white jacket with tails, with a Jazz Festival emblem on the back. She promptly took it off after the first song, complaining of the heat. This was her usual fun, swamp R&B set, showcasing her accomplished barrelhouse piano style. Another of Jelly Roll Morton’s and Professor Longhair’s children soldiers on. Ball loves Jazz Festival and always plays at her best here, sort of like seeing the Grateful Dead in San Francisco. Towards the end she played “Louisiana 1927,” Randy Newman’s song about a 1927 flood in Plaquemines Parish. It immediately became one of the true Louisiana songs, but even more so after Katrina. Its always a really moving part of her show, especially when played in New Orleans: “Some people got lost in the flood; some people got away alright.” I visited briefly with a guy from Houston wearing an Astros shirt, who said he’d been coming to the Festival since 1976, and had brought his daughter for her first Festival. They had some mister device attached to his camelback, spraying really cooling mist. Just goes to show, Houstonians are friendly. Houston itself may have problems, but Houstonians are the best.

As the Marcia Ball crowd began to filter out, the “Sugarland” fans began moving in, even though that band wouldn’t go on until after Bonnie Raitt (whom I missed because her shows are generally fairly lackluster). Specifically, these two wearing t-shirts just for the occasion that they appear to have made the night before. I don’t know much about Sugarland, except they’re a country duo. But I could tell a lot about them by their army of fans. Here’s a game—signs that your band sucks. 1. Your crowds are all the same sex. 2. Your crowd consists mostly of mother-daughter pairs or a bunch of BFFs who are going to put their memories of the show in their scrapbooks the morning after. 3. Your crowd was the crowd at Oprah’s taping last Tuesday. 4. Your fans make their own t-shirts for the show, out of leftover crafts materials from their daughters’ swim team sleepover. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome to the Jazz Festival stage, Sugarland. Yikes. Hey, Sugar Land, Texas just called. It wants you to keep its name out of your mouth.

Next up was a brief stay at Geno Delafose. This was a pretty robust zydeco/boogie-woogie band, in the mold of Boozoo Chavis and CJ Chenier. The crowd was rockin’ here too, and dancing was breaking out everywhere. Delafose, despite the heat, wore jeans and a buttoned up, thick dress shirt. Didn’t appear affected at all…I guess the cool never sweat.

After getting some good barbecue chicken around 3:30 or so, I went back to the Gospel Tent for Shades of Praise, who got some attention in the Times-Picayune. There now follows a racist statement. Most white religious or praise music, pretty much is awful. I’m not exactly sure why. Something about the soul in the suburbs from which it emanates. Hard to really belt it out for Jesus with your heart and soul when you’re sandwiching it in between soccer practice and getting the kids started on their homework (or giving Mr. Buttons his weekly bath). Shades of Praise, a mixed race choir, proves the lie that white folks can’t sing praise with passion and fire. They were just as soul-stirring as anyone else on the Gospel Tent stage (except, of course, the Zion Harmonizers and Aaron Neville’s solo gospel performance, to come later this weekend).

After a few songs, I headed to the Blues Tent for the first time today to hear long-time local club favorite Walter “Wolfman” Washington. This was more R&B than B, but still dirty. The sound in the Blues Tent leaves a lot to be desired. It was distorted, particularly at the high ends, and centered rather than spread throughout the tent. Still a fun show, and the tent was packed with enthusiastic fans.

Looking to see someone else before Tony Bennett, I headed to the Fais-do-do Stage for Patty Griffin, who I vaguely had heard of. Big mistake. This was K-Geezer (KGSR) music for sure. Indie chick complaint ballads. Every one of these kinds of songs (Jewel, Indigo Girls, Sarah McLaughlin) sounds like complaints that their lives are ruined because their dad missed their childhood ballet recital or they didn’t get asked to the prom. Well I went to two proms and trust me, they sucked. In my case, I had to answer to my mother why my date ordered the turtle soup in addition to her entrĂ©e. What was I supposed to do? Say, “sorry honey, but Mom says you can’t have soup. We’re still on for ‘later,’ right?” No, that doesn’t work. When you take a girl on a date, you essentially are turning over the right to your financial resources to her for the evening’s activities, and she has final say over the evening’s activities. All you can do is minimize collateral damage. Where was I? Oh. Signs that your Cajun band at the Jazz Festival Fais-do-do Stage is less than par: 1. No one in your band is from Louisiana or East Texas. Boo-yah!

So its on to Economy Hall, where the tent is full but decidedly not a rockin’. Maybe that has to do with the prevalence of walkers and other mobility assistive devices catering to the nursing home that appears to have bussed its entire population to the Economy Hall tent to enjoy the fine clarinet music. Other than Preservation Hall in the French Quarter, New York, or possibly the Catskills, the Economy Hall tent at New Orleans Jazz Festival is about the only place one can consistently hear professionally-played clarinet music. But, everyone here always seems to enjoy themselves. This is the style of jazz music that people of that age would have known when they grew up—dixieland and ragtime. There’s also a dance floor, populated mainly by the cast of Cocoon and moms dancing with their little children. Weirdoes also come here with their home-decorated umbrellas and break out in impromptu dancing and second-lining across the tent, generally starting a “second line.”

A word about the weirdoes here. As you can get a glimpse of on flickr, the Weirdo-American community has sent many of its members to attend the Festival. Be it those idiots carrying around tambourines and wearing “free hugs” signs, or people wearing bizarre clothes, or dancing inappropriately in the crowd, the weirdoes seem to have been increasing in number through the years. Something has to be done about this. Its one thing to be a little off; its another thing when every time you turn around some freak is up in your face. Back away from me, and take your masks, and your noisemakers, and your short shorts, and your silly hats, and your "free hugs" signs with you.

Finally, we have arrived at the Tony Bennett Show. The show starts with his daughter Antonia singing three songs as a warmup, then on comes the man. Backed by only four musicians (bass, drums, piano, electric guitar), all suited up, Bennett commanded the stage and crowd for more than an hour. Dressed impeccably in blue slacks, yellow blazer, crisp white dress shirt and a navy/red tie, he had no problems moving all around the stage, standing by each player during the numerous solos he generously allowed them. Bennett even danced a little throughout the show. Every introduction was positive, and every greeting was humble. But his pipes were the best part. This man is amazing. A true professional, from the era of the great performers. He still has his fastball, and uses it as his “out pitch.” Bennett hit every high note, his tone and volume was strong throughout his entire register, and his stamina didn’t fail once. At one point he joked about having been singing professionally for 60 years. Oh, yeah, did I mention that Tony Bennett is 83 years old? You would never know it. He ran onto the stage at one point, and did a soft shoe and soulful strut during “Shadow of Your Smile.” He deadpanned as he dedicated “The Good Life” to Britney Spears. Other highlights included “I Got Rhythm,” “Just the Way You Look Tonight,” "But Beautiful," “Who Cares,” “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” (opened with a verse from “Do You Know What It Means to Miss New Orleans”), and “Steppin’ Out With My Baby.” Bennett was so “on” he may as well have been performing at the Copa in 1958. Henry Hill could have been on the front row, accepting a bottle of Dom Perignon from Paulie and the other bosses. The festival crowd, nearly all of whom were half his age, loved it. I heard people marveling over the performance as we left the show. Everyone sang along to songs they knew. Loud, raucous cheering. If you think about it, Tony Bennett, along with Johnny Mathis, is just about the last man standing from the great era of the American pop singers-Sinatra, Martin, Davis, Crosby, Nat King Cole, Mel Torme, John Gary, Frankie Lane, Perry Como, Bobby Darin, Andy Williams….That’s the rewards of having a tremendous outlook. Bennett said tonight that his very best friend ever was Frank Sinatra. Anyone who can legitimately say that is a force to be reckoned with. This was truly one of the special Jazz Festival performances ever, signified by Festival CEO Quint Davis taking the stage after Bennett concluded to thank him for his performance. A perfect way to end a memorable performance.

Tomorrow—Buckwheat Zydeco, Cowboy Mouth, John Mayall, Bonerama, Zachary Richard, and Aaron Neville’s solo gospel performance.